Sunset Traveler

Old Point Reyes Schoolhouse Compound: A mini-retreat near Northern California’s Tomales Bay and Point Reyes

2009-11-20T09:00:00-08:00

by Lisa Trottier, Sunset travel editor

Tomales Bay is a standby escape for Bay Area dwellers who in just over an hour can find themselves slurping oysters on its shores or hiking along the crashing Pacific in Point Reyes. It’s a place that gets overlooked a lot by out-of-staters, but that’s something I expect will change.

Finding the right place to stay here can be tricky—your choices are few. Development is notoriously difficult—just ask Pat Kuleto, who fought for a decade to get the cozy/schmancy Nick’s Cove reopened a couple of years ago.

But one of my favorite sleeps has been around for ages, hidden on the edge of the town of Point Reyes Station. The Old Point Reyes Schoolhouse Compound is a cluster of four artfully decorated mini-retreats with kitchens, private patios, and homey touches like window nooks and chicken coops.

I stayed in Jasmine Cottage, the smallest of the lot, recently, and loved our little garden and how easy it was to stroll into town for breakfast at Pine Cone Diner or cheese shopping at Cowgirl Creamery.

Book it: From $185, oldpointreyesschoolhouse.com, 415/663-1166

Get Sunset’s take on exploring Point Reyes and Tomales Bay, and our advice on where to find the best oysters.

Trip Advisor rant of the week: The Artesian Hotel in Las Vegas

2009-11-19T16:47:12-08:00

By Rachel Levin, Sunset senior editor

I'm sorry, but this is too good not to share. Editor-at-large Peter Fish just came across some of the best rants ever posted on Trip Advisor. Sunset readers, if you're looking for a family-friendly spot to stay in Las Vegas--it sounds like the Artesian Hotel is decidely not it. Behold:

"The long and short of it is the place is a dump and the staff is rude.The place was dirty from the beds to the pool. They give shoddy towels which were a mixture of newish (but stained) to actually torn."

"The staff only pick's up things on the floor, they don't actually clean the rooms with chemicals; we actually watched them do it to a few rooms. Disinfectant anybody? Not there."

My favorite:

"I checked in and went up to my room with my family and after we settled in my daughter noticed a used condom, mind you she is only five and knows not to touch any thing that doesn't belong to her, thank god! So as fast as I checked in, my family and I checked out!"

So, okay, the Artesian is out.

But a fun, family-friendly, and affordable place in Vegas that we can vouch for? Easy:

The Red Rock Resort & Casino, twenty minutes from the Strip and just two from the entrance to Red Rock Canyon.

Book it: From $100

Plan your trip to Las Vegas

Winter bargains at the Grand Canyon Railway Hotel

2009-11-18T14:30:59-08:00

By Peter Fish, Sunset Editor-at-Large

Northern Arizona is high on the list of places I don’t live in but would like to. It has the Grand Canyon–who wouldn’t want to live near the Grand Canyon? But there’s also the surrounding Coconino Plateau, with its aspen and ponderosa pines and soon, now, a dusting of winter snow beneath what I think are the world’s most intensely blue skies.

Geography is one reason I like the Grand Canyon Railway Hotel in Williams, Arizona. Another is history: while the hotel is contemporary, it’s designed to complement the century-old Williams train depot next door. And Williams itself is a draw. For years the kind of town you’d only stop in to buy gasoline and Slim Jims, it now has a thriving Main Street with some decent restaurants and places to shop and a lot of Route 66 memorabilia, because Main Street is indeed part of historic Route 66.

And— because you’d be insane to be this close (60 miles) to the Grand Canyon and not see it—the hotel is paired with the Grand Canyon Railway, which will take you from the Williams Depot in vintage passenger trains up to the canyon. You can do the excursions on a day trip, or as part of a two- or three-day package.

This is a bargain time of year to make the trip: rates drop in November and drop again in early January. (For example, The Railway Getaway Plus features roundtrip coach-class train travel, two nights of lodging at the Grand Canyon Railway Hotel and two breakfasts and two dinners per person. The rate is $262 per person beginning Nov. 1, 2009 through Jan. 2, 2010 and $202 per person Jan. 3 through March 14, 2010.) Take it from a fan: this part of the world is cold but phenomenally beautiful this time of year.

Book it:

Plan your trip with Sunset’s guide to Williams, and our complete guide to the Grand Canyon.

A winter wonderland at the W Los Angeles-Westwood

2009-11-17T12:43:04-08:00

by MacKenzie Geidt, Sunset assistant travel editor

So it may be 78-degrees in Los Angeles today, but it's beginning to feel a lot like winter at the W Los Angeles-Westwood. Check out this only-in-L.A. swimming pool turned ice rink:

Photos: Howard Wise

And ice rink cabanas? Now that's just genius. I'M GOING! You can cuddle up in one of these with s'mores, pumpkin lattes, hot chocolate (the adult version), and other cozy comfort food from the "Snowy Snack Bar" after landing your double axel on that pink ice.

They had me at the ice rink, but the rooms look pretty sweet as well (designed by Thom Filicia, who we profiled in the SoCal edition of our October design issue).

Book it: The "Chill" ice rink is up until January 24th. Check the W's deal page for special offers starting at $199. They've also got a fun-looking "Ice Skate, You Skate, We All Skate" from $299 which includes 2 skating tickets, 2 winter cocktails, and a studio. Or call 310/208-8765.

Plan your trip: There's no shortage of things to keep you busy in this town. Find fame and fortune on Wilshire Boulevard, cruise around Santa Monica and check out Main St., head to Chinatown for some awesome dim sum, or try one of L.A.'s famous taco trucks.

Zion Lodge, where you don’t have to go anywhere to see it all

2009-11-16T15:12:43-08:00

by Lisa Trottier, Sunset travel editor

I’ve been to Zion National Park in the blazing days of summer, and I’ve been when it’s dusted with snow. I’ll take the latter any old day. When the crowds thin and the park eases driving restrictions, it’s so much easier to enjoy its surreal beauty.

I visited this year in late March—and for the first time stayed at the Zion Lodge, the only overnight option inside the entrance gate. Springdale, the gateway to the park, is a nice town, but eating pancakes every morning with the canyon walls glowing outside the window. Well, it’s the only way to go.

The lodge rooms themselves aren’t much to shout about, but they open onto a broad lawn which itself is one of the park’s most scenic sights. When we weren’t feeling ambitious, my kids and I did our sightseeing right there.

Tackled by my kids on the Zion Lodge lawn.

And now, the off-season rates have kicked in. This month, until just before Thanksgiving, rooms start at $100/night. Starting Dec. 1, they start at $89/night.

Book it: 888.29.PARKS

Plan your trip with Sunset’s online guide to the park, including the top wow spots and your best plan whether you have one day or three.

The Evergreen Lodge: A great deal at the edge of Yosemite

2009-11-13T13:27:05-08:00

by Anna Nordberg, Sunset Special Projects Editor

Many national park lovers think fall is the best time to visit Yosemite, before the big snows hit but after the summer throngs depart. The Evergreen Lodge, which opened 24 new cabins in April, celebrates shoulder season with a bargain hunter's dream—25% off its weekday rates, Sunday to Thursday (rates start at an already attractive $90/night). Anticipating your next question ... sadly, Thanksgiving does not apply. But hey, look how beautiful this place is (it's a mile from Yosemite, at the entrance of Hetch Hetchy Valley):

PHOTO: David Fenton for Sunset

While you can get a dusting of snow in November, most trails will still be clear for hiking. And if you're the kind of person who, say, likes apres ski more than the real stuff, you can curl up with a book in front of the fire.

PHOTO: David Fenton for Sunset

Book it: Cabins from $90 (off-peak and non-holiday); evergreenlodge.com

Plan your trip: Sunset's ultimate guide to the national parks

Talk to us: What's your favorite season at Yosemite? What national park hotels do you love?

Good deal alert: Third night free at the Cedar House Sport Hotel in Tahoe

2009-11-12T15:02:20-08:00

By Rachel Levin, Sunset senior editor

No, we don’t mean now—mid-November—when the Sierra slopes are still bare-naked. (Despite a dusting last night. Yeah!) But, a good deal that’s actually during ski season. Our favorite boutique hotel in Truckee is offering a third night free—on a weekend. Which, just to spell it out for you, means you can arrive on Thursday or stay till Monday (which is the right way to do a Tahoe weekend anyway) and only pay for Fri and Sat. You can read more about Cedar House here. And here. But book now, I say, before these dustings turn to dumps—and the owners of this eco-luxe little inn revoke their very kind offer.

(Like they say they might in the fine print.)

Book now: Rooms from $150 a night

Plan your trip to Tahoe

Holiday Splurge at Disney’s Grand Californian

2009-11-12T14:56:22-08:00

By Peter Fish, Sunset Editor-at-Large

OK, times are tight. The recession may be ending, or softening, or something. But everybody I know is still watching pennies as devoutly as Scrooge McDuck (relevancy of cartoon reference to be made clear shortly).

So it may seem strange to recommend a splurge hotel. But here’s why: It’s genuinely spectacular, it’s a great place to be this time of year, and you’re not just splurging for yourself, you’re splurging for your loved ones.

The hotel is the Grand Californian Hotel and Spa at the Disneyland Resort. Its 9 years old now, and it’s aged well—in fact the Disney people just added a bunch of new rooms to it earlier this fall. The Grand Californian’s architecture was inspired by national park palaces like Yosemite’s Ahwahnee and Yellowstone’s Old Faithful Inn. And while I know people who consider this opinion heresy, I think it’s as beautiful as those hotels, even if you see a lot more people with mouse ears here.

Rooms aren’t cheap, but they are cheaper this time of year than in summer. Right now, you can get a room for $233 per night if you stay two nights. And remember those loved ones, especially loved ones at prime Disneyland-going ages. What do they get? First, they get incomparable access to Disneyland and California Adventure. It really is more convenient to stay at the park hotels than elsewhere, plus you get the benefit of the Magic Mornings program, which lets hotel guests enter parks a full hour early so they can rush as fast as they can to Space Mountain or Tower of Terror and ride them repeatedly while the rest of the world is waking up and sipping coffee. What do adults get? The gorgeous lobby, the best pool in any of the park hotels, and also the best bar—in fact one of the best bars in Southern California, which I know seems unlikely but is true.

Plus it’s the holidays. Disney does holidays very, very well. Sleeping Beauty’s Castle is covered with icicles, and snow falls on Main Street U.S.A. People who come from cold climates where real snow falls may sneer. But we native Southern Californians respond: imitation snow and icicles are just as good, and maybe even better because they’ve been carefully designed to complement the park decor.

A great holiday is always a mix of the artificial and the heartfelt. Nobody does the blend better than Disneyland, and no place at Disneyland is quite as cozily luxurious as the Grand Californian.

Book it: Rooms from $239.

A cheap beachside sleep in Santa Barbara: check out the West Beach Inn

2009-11-10T09:40:19-08:00

by MacKenzie Geidt, Sunset assistant travel editor

If you're bored with your stay-at-home, football-inundated Thanksgiving tradition, maybe it's time to consider taking this holiday party to the beach. Maybe sprinkle a little sun and sand into the occasion? Santa Barbara is a mighty fine spot to feel thankful, and the West Beach Inn is a sweet little beachy spot to base yourself for under $200 a night as we're heading into low season.

The greatest advantage of this place is the prime beachfront real estate—RIGHT across the street from the beach and the gorgeous coastal bike path, and within walking distance of all the action on State Street. It's got a bit of the motel vibe on the exterior, but the lush garden landscaping and abundant palms give it a nice touch of the tropics. (And the rooms are definitely more "hotel" than "motel.") Throw in continental breakfast and afternoon wine and cheese, and you've got yourself a steal.

Photos courtesy of Coast Hotels and Resorts

Book it: Rooms from $170, 805/963-4277, 306 West Cabrillo Blvd.

Plan your trip: Cruise through Santa Barbara County's wine country, check out Santa Barbara's waterfront, try the tamales on Milpas Street, and discover SB's SoCo neighborhood.

The Clement: A great room on Monterey Bay

2009-11-09T14:58:30-08:00

by Lisa Trottier, Sunset travel editor

I’m not the turkey-baking type, so for me Thanksgiving means one thing: four full days to get out of town. Last year, I soaked up the sunny skies and 70-degree weather in Monterey, California, at the just-opened Clement Monterey.

Choosing the Clement broke several of my own personal rules. First of all, it’s on Cannery Row, a tourist haven of souvenir shops and candy stores. Plus, it’s part of an international hotel chain—the Intercontinental.

But, what can I say? I loved my stay at the Clement. Mostly for its back deck right over the crashing waves of Monterey Bay. From the fire pit, where cocktails are served under the moonlight, we could see seals peep out of the water. Plus, the hotel is literally next door to the Monterey Bay Aquarium, eliminating any parking or traffic hassles for the town’s biggest attraction.

Best of all, every day my husband and I loaded our kids into their bike seats and cruised along a path that crosses right in front of the hotel, skirting the edge of the bay all the way to the Pacific Ocean. After that, we’d dig in to the fish and chips at locals’ favorite Sea Harvest. And I have to say, we didn't miss the turkey one bit.

Book it: From $199, (831) 375-4500

Plan your trip: Read Sunset’s advice on where to hike around Monterey and a great bike ride in nearby Pacific Grove.